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This article is the second in a
series discussing the ongoing spiral straw bale project. Benjamin
Pinover is co-writer of the series, as well as co-builder. In this
article we discuss a number of possible foundations for natural
buildings, focusing on the rubble trench technique that we used for
this one.
The foundation is the most important
part of any building, representing the highest embodied energy and
structural load of any part of the building. The foundation roots the
building to the ground, granting a stability often lacking in ordinary
soil. In cold climates, freezing temperatures will heave the soil,
while expansive soils rich in clay or sand will expand or contract
depending on moisture content - hence the need to stabilize a building
by digging down below the frost line or creating a solid footing in
loose soils.
Conventional buildings use concrete, a
mixture of cement and aggregates such as gravel and sand, to attach the
building to stable soil. Concrete is the most common material used in
foundations, but it is also one of the most ecologically costly.
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The worldwide manufacture of concrete
consumes 1.6 billion tons of Portland cement, 10 billion tons of sand
and rock, and 1 billion tons of water each year, making the concrete
industry the largest user of natural resources in the world.
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The open pit quarrying of the raw
materials needed for concrete can result in soil erosion, pollutant
runoff, habitat loss, and ugly scars on the landscape.
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Portland cement is the third most energy
intensive material used in construction, after aluminum and steel. Its
embodied energy is about 2400 BTU per pound, or 5.6 MJ/kg. The total
energy embodied in a cubic yard of concrete is about 2,600,000 BTU.
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The cement industry produces massive
amounts of air pollution: For every ton of cement clinker produced, a
ton of carbon dioxide, a greenhouse gas, is released into the
atmosphere. This is about 7 percent of the total release of greenhouse
gases in the world, an amount equivalent to the output of 330 million
vehicles" (427, Allen).
Cement is a wondrous material, a liquid
stone which can be formed to nearly any shape and which will harden
quickly. However, there are several ways to limit the amount of cement
that is used, and even a few ways of avoiding cement altogether.
A good foundation has two functions: it
should keep water from entering into the building itself, and it should
stay put. Cement does both of these things, by blocking water from
draining past it and simply by being a massive anchor. However, a
combination of techniques can be used to achieve stability and
protection from water. For proper drainage a common technique is to
replace the soil below the structure with gravel, or small rocks.
Gravel allows water to drain away quickly, while providing a uniform
footing for the solid mass of the foundation. On top of the rubble
trench goes something extremely heavy and firm, something massive, that
connects the foundation to the wall. This part, called the stem wall,
can be made of stone, earth-bags, urbanite (recycled concrete), or a
small cement cap piece.
The foundation is where the natural
builder first runs into the costs and benefits of different materials.
The costs of transporting, placing and securing the different materials
must be weighed here, as in the case of all materials for the natural
builder. For example, urbanite is a great way to reuse cement, but its
efficiency decreases as it is transported further away from the source.
A similar question is "To backhoe or
not to backhoe?" Ben explains encountering this dilemma on a project of
his in Connecticut, where the soil is rocky and the trench must go
below the frost line to keep the building from being moved when the
ground freezes:
For my building,
I began digging in August of 2006 and continued until late September.
Each pick strike and shovelful brought me closer to my goal, but in the
monotony and rhythm of the task, I found a kind of satisfaction. A
satisfaction that was of course mitigated by sore muscles and an aching
back. Ultimately, digging a foundation is the heaviest work involved
in natural construction, and, on larger projects, the use of heavy
machinery is the only economical way to go. A backhoe can dig a
complete foundation for a small house and fill the rubble trench with
gravel in a day or two, by way of contrast, I spent nearly two months
digging and gathering small stones. In those two months, however, I
worked each day in the open air on the site and gained a much deeper
connection through the process of digging, smelling the dirt, listening
to the quiet of the woods, working slowly, gradually, adapting the form
of the building as I went; all of which the use of heavy machinery
would have completely destroyed.
For the straw bale spiral we could not
use a backhoe even if we had wanted to, as tightly curved shapes are
not what heavy machinery do best. We only needed a trench underneath
the load-bearing portions of the building, which are the straw bales
and heavy posts. So we needed a two foot wide trench that spiraled
around itself for 60 feet. Fortunately the Texas soil is akin to sandy
flour, so digging 20 cubic yards of soil in a spiral was not unpleasant
at all. Each shovelful was substantial, and at the bottom of the
three-foot trench we hit some compacted soil of clay, sand and small
rocks. The trench was lined with landscaper's cloth: a fibrous mesh that
prevents soil from washing into the drainage and keeps roots from
growing among the gravel. At the bottom of the trench we laid a
drainage pipe that spirals down the slightly inclined trench. A day
later, 18 tons of compressor rock (¾ inch to 2 inch rocks that wedge
together under pressure) made the site look like the four days of
digging had never occured.
On top of a rubble trench sits something
massive. We ruled out one good technique, rammed earth tires, as being
incredibly labor intensive. Also, I had health concerns about the brake
pad asbesos powder that the tires may have consumed.. Another
interesting alternative that we could have used is urbanite. Urbanite
is an extremely available and ecologically friendly material, using a
ubiquitous waste product of every new construction. Chunks of
concrete, especially from waste pours at large building sites or
road/sidewalk construction, are often of uniform thickness and have at
least one and usually two flat edges, making them stable when stacked
and easy to work with. Urbanite foundations can be built like free
standing stone walls or stacked inside a form to dec rease the volume of
poured concrete necessary. In this case, since the straw bale project
is in a rural area, transporting urbanite to the build site would all
but negate the positive impact of reusing a waste product.
We decided that given the weight of the
bales and roof planned, a cap piece of concrete was advisable, as
opposed to earth bags. We made form boards by staggering thin,
flexible boards and then staking them into the ground. It is
interesting to note that as the form boards were leveled around the
spiral, they untwisted and stood rigid in their curve. As the last
board was leveled with stakes, the curves of the forms were graceful
and secure. Inside the forms we put steel remesh, which bonds to the
concrete reinforcing it against cracking. Along the tight curves and
corners, the steel taken from the side of the dearly departed bus added
extra reinforcement.
With the form boards ready, we
contracted the local concrete mixer to come with a truck and pour the
cement cap piece. The mixer uses a 15% fly ash mix with limestone
available locally for aggregate. However, disaster struck when the
cement truck, only slightly larger than the dump truck that delivered
the stone, could not navigate the turn into the build site. We decided
that the best option at this point was to rent a mixer and make the
cement ourselves. As it turned out, mixing our own concrete allowed us
to use excess stone from the rubble trench, as well as some of the
sandy soil we removed while digging the trench.
We waited until after the sun's heat to
start mixing; pouring buckets of rock, sand, Portland cement, and water
into the loud grinding mixer. As we scooped the cement around the
spiral, we saw the thin form boards beginning to bulge. Since thicker
plywood would not bend, we had used thinner stock. Fortunately, the
wood bulged between the stakes but did not breach. As we continued
around, however, we soon realized that a few inches of bulging would
increase our estimated volume substantially, and another harried cement
run needed to be made. The frenzied pour lasted into the night, with
car lights illuminating the frantic scene. As we poured we smoothed and
leveled the concrete, placing the brackets and anchor bolts that would
later secure posts and bales to the cap piece. The end result was
slightly bulging, slightly bumpy, but solid, secure, and strong.
After we poured the foundation, it was
time for careful measurement and carpentry for the walls. The walls are
a synthesis of heavy 4x6 inch timbers and bales held together with
high-tension wires. The next installment in this series will discuss
the wall system in more detail. As of now, construction has slowed a
bit due to rainfall, so keep an eye out for the next installation soon!
sources
http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/whatis/
http://www.dancingrabbit.org/newsletter/Newsletter0898_Foundation.php
Natural Capitalism: Creating the Next Industrial Revolution, by Paul Hawken, Amory Lovins, and L. Hunter Lovins, 2000
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